Being “in” through her wardrobe ensures well-being, recognition and social distinction. But how far?
It was called the movement “New Look”. It was just after the Occupation. “Despite the shortage, it was primarily in garment What were the key concern, Rezvani surprised the writer in his essay The Woman stealth (Ed. Actes Sud). The survivors of the last great war and ruined themselves into debt to own the dress, the dress that should represent not only the important moments of their lives, but every day. “An elegant wardrobe as a possible means to recover its dignity after years of disrepute? Undoubtedly.
This strategy of collective renarcissisation applied to a country under reconstruction also applies to the individual. And now as before, and observes Frederic Godart, a researcher at Insead sociologist and author of a recent fashion Sociology (Ed La Découverte). “Since the Renaissance, fashion is a tool of class distinction and ostentation. This is one of the most powerful means to serve his social elevation, as when the bourgeois nineteenth century began to compete with the aristocrats. Today, the nobles, it is the few stars that are imitated through a luxury accessory. “Because even if we have a small budget, buy a pair of boots or a scarf brand remains high possible. Frédéric Godart by such a mechanism explains the good health of the luxury industry in our country in crisis.
The unemployed woman who goes to buy a skirt to escape the feeling of inevitability, the fashion victim who is anxiously awaiting the release of the new bag supposed to fill his dreams of perfection, the teenager who displays his freedom by wearing a t-shirt with the effigy of The Strokes … So we can use our dressing room to express ourselves, share just waiting to be externalized. And sometimes, simply to display a new outfit or dare ad hoc detail gives us the feeling of being in a different class of individuals.
Follow a general trend to exist? This is the great paradox of fashion: this machine among all normative (“To be in, wear blue and beige this spring) also allows everyone to find his style and express his inner self.
Anne Boulay, editor of GQ magazine that speaks of “men on a different tone,” and shows a 20% increase in sales since last year, says the emancipatory power from the male of this new way consider fashion: “Since the great wave of industrialization, men were trapped in a” dress code “gray wall that did not evolve. Wearing a suit marked the entrance into adulthood, but as the men look in the mirror much less than women, that their fathers do not necessarily have them transmitted the art of knotting the tie or wear a jacket the effect was often disappointing. ”
Hence the need to learn to play with them, learn about the uses to follow a sort of initiation by clothing magazine inserted, just as women have long followed through their weekly favorite. “In GQ, we give to men, several generations together, very clear benchmarks, codes, they can then rush,” says Anne Boulay. Gradually, they discover that fashion is not a cloud castrating will deprive them of their manhood, but rather a playground within which everyone can find his style. ”
Result: people who will no longer afraid to wear a pocket watch or a tweed grandfather with a pair of trendy sneakers. Or even a tie, either symbolically lived like a rope to hang himself, but rather reinterpreted as the height of fantasy. With the certainty that, anyway, “the dress is nothing without the attitude” as it is written in the March issue of 2011. Posture confirms the analysis of Frederic Godart, that “to enjoy real fashion, follow one of taste.”
Express the nuances of his personality
At the time of globalization and low-cost brands, it is now possible for all to enjoy the restorative powers and inclusive fashion. Some try to escape, however, these paths too plotted: amateur deposit-sales or vintage shops looking into these spaces less standardized clothing that will express the subtle nuances of their personality.
“But beware, warns Frederic Godart, it is very difficult to” get out “of fashion. Proof: The staff believes that vintage style is actually practiced by a multitude, all who seek to express their difference. And even punk outfits were one day found in the haute couture shows. “